Qualities of Prime Alpaca Fiber
Alpaca prime fiber has several desired characteristics. Among them are: fineness, softness, luster, strength, length, uniformity and color. Alpaca fiber is considered to be the second most desired fiber in the world, after vicuna, a wild relative of the alpaca. It is valued to the consumer because it has the softness to the touch of cashmere. It is warmer than sheep’s wool without the weight. The alpaca fiber itself is covered with smooth scales instead of hooks, as in sheep's wool. It also does not require harsh chemicals to process it. It does not have lanolin, to which many are allergic. These are several reasons why alpaca fiber does not cause the itchiness that many people suffer from when sheep's wool is close to their skin. Suri fiber also has a shiny luster like silk. As breeders, we breed for the following qualities.
Fineness: The fineness of alpaca fiber is measured by machine in microns. It can measure 15 microns at its finest up to microns in the 30's as age and poor genetics or conditions create coarseness. It is the fineness of the fiber that gives alpaca softness to the touch.
Luster or Brightness: Luster is a defining characteristic of Suri fiber and brightness is the desired characteristic for Huacaya fiber.
Strength: Fiber mills are interested in the strength of alpaca fiber but it is very important to a hand spinner and weaver as well. If the fiber is not able to be carded and spun without breaking, it is really useless. The last thing a weaver wants is weak areas in the fabric from broken fibers.
Length & uniformity: These qualities go together because of the nature of spinning. It is easier to spin fiber, either commercially or by hand, that is even in length and 3 to 6 inches in length. If the fiber is over 6 inches, many mills will not take it or will charge a fee to cut it. The process of hand carding very long fiber is unruly and tiring. If the yarn is spun from fibers of all different lengths, a garment made from it may pill or have short fibers that seem prickly.
Color: There are 22 different acknowledged colors of alpaca fiber. In the mills of South America, white fiber is most desired because it can be dyed any color with consistency. In America, we have an active hand spinning community which desires the natural, varied colors of fiber. Therefore, in the United States, we have a larger market for colored fiber and a breeder can design his herd with certain desired colors in mind.
All of these characteristics appear to be largely genetic and breeders choose breeding matches with these characteristics in mind. Other influential factors include nutrition, stress and other environmental factors.
In order to make breeding for this fine fiber a goal, the breeder must know these characteristics well. We must be able to touch and feel and identify the differences. There are seminars on fiber that one can attend in order to gain this knowledge and experience. Another way of doing this is to volunteer to assist fleece shows and learn from the judges, or to learn to spin oneself or at least, follow these artists around for a while to see how they choose and work with our prized, luxurious alpaca fiber.
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